Kawaichi (川市) is a family noodle house in Kuwana, Mie, that has been serving miso-nikomi udon, hamaguri clam udon and its own gyoza for over 60 years. We ate there in October 2026 and paid ¥4,620 for three. It’s closed on Tuesdays and is worth the stop if you’re passing through Kuwana.
Kuwana sits where the Kiso, Nagara and Ibi rivers meet the sea, and it has been famous for hamaguri (common orient clams) for centuries. It was a post town on the old Tōkaidō road, and travellers ate grilled clams here before taking the ferry across the bay to Nagoya. The clams are so tied to the town that there’s an Edo-period pun on its name: sono te wa Kuwana no yaki-hamaguri, “I won’t fall for that trick.”
We went for lunch on a Monday with my son Kayne and our friend Ryoko, who lives locally. From the outside, Kawaichi looks like an old family shop, with a purple noren over a wooden door and a tall sign reading 味噌煮込 川市. Inside it was busy without being rushed. Local businessmen came and went on their lunch breaks, families sat down beside us, and Kayne and I were the only foreigners in the room. I took that as a good sign.
What is Kawaichi known for?
There are three things.
- Miso-nikomi udon. Thick udon simmered in a clay pot of miso broth. The menu says they blend five kinds of miso from around Japan, and they make the noodles every morning. Every miso-nikomi can be switched to a clear broth (sumashi).
- Hamaguri dishes. This is Kuwana, so the clams get their own page on the menu.
- Kawaichi gyoza. The recipe and spice blend have been handed down in the family. The menu says they sometimes sell around 1,000 a day, and because prep takes a full day, they can sell out. The filling has a little sansho pepper in it.
There’s also a 中華そば (chūka soba, a simple shoyu ramen) that the menu describes as “the taste from our founding days, when we were a diner.” It hasn’t changed since.
What we ordered
Hamaguri nabe-udon in clear broth (はまぐり鍋うどん, ¥1,980)
Ryoko and I shared this, and it was the highlight. About six clams sat open in a clay pot with fried tofu, spring onion and a slice of kamaboko, in a clear, sweet clam broth. The menu recommends sumashi over miso for this dish, and after tasting it I agree. The udon had a good chew and was extra long. Lift it with your chopsticks and it just keeps coming.
Hamaguri tenmusu (蛤天むす, ¥640)
Nagoya’s tenmusu is a rice ball with tempura prawn. Kuwana’s version uses a tempura clam instead. It was a nice surprise, a crisp clam tucked into the top of the rice and wrapped in nori, and it was very good.
Chūka soba (中華そば, ¥880)
Kayne doesn’t eat seafood, so this was his order. It’s a clear, dark shoyu broth with thin straight noodles, chāshū, menma, spring onion and nori. It’s old-fashioned in the best way.
Gyoza two ways (焼餃子 and 揚げ餃子, ¥560 each for 6)
We ordered one plate pan-fried, which means fried and then steamed under a lid, and one deep-fried. The filling is what stood out. It’s denser than gyoza elsewhere, packed full of goodies, and well seasoned. Our table agreed the pan-fried version had the better texture, with a crisp base and a soft, juicy top. The deep-fried ones are crunchy all over. The menu says they were added because customers asked for them.
Total for three: ¥4,620, about ¥1,540 each, tax included.
The verdict: we left satisfied. Kawaichi is a good all-round restaurant, with clams for the seafood lovers, ramen and gyoza for anyone who isn’t, and a kids’ set too.
When to go
Kawaichi is open year round. Kuwana’s hamaguri are traditionally at their best in early spring, but the clam udon is on the menu every day.
- Closed: Tuesdays
- Mondays: they close once things sell out
- Hours: lunch from 11:30, dinner from 17:00 (check closing times on the day)
Visiting Kawaichi
| Name | Kawaichi · 麺処 餃子 川市 (that’s how it appears on Google Maps) |
| Address | 〒511-0021 三重県桑名市川口町32 (32 Kawaguchi-chō, Kuwana, Mie) |
| Phone | 0594-22-1709 |
| Closed | Tuesdays. On Mondays they close once sold out |
| Reservations | Mostly walk-in. We walked in at lunch |
| Payment | Cash, PayPay, Alipay |
| Parking | Customers use the lot across the street; check with staff if you’re unsure |
| Getting there | We drove. It’s a fair walk from Kuwana Station, so a taxi is easier if you’re coming by train |
| Menu | Japanese only. See ordering phrases below |
| We visited | October 2026, Monday lunch |
| We paid | ¥4,620 for three (prices as of October 2026, tax included) |
| Take-home | Raw or cooked gyoza, ¥560 for 6 |
How to order
The menu is in Japanese only. Ryoko did our ordering, but if you’re on your own, these two phrases will get you the best of the menu:
- はまぐり鍋うどん、すましでお願いします。
Hamaguri nabe-udon, sumashi de onegaishimasu.: Hamaguri hotpot udon, clear broth, please. - 餃子、焼きと揚げ、一つずつお願いします。
Gyōza, yaki to age, hitotsu zutsu onegaishimasu.: One plate of pan-fried gyoza and one of deep-fried, please.
A translator app helps too. Point the camera mode of an app like Google Translate at the menu. The dish names and prices are printed in clear type, so they translate well; the brush-lettered headings less so.
My Japanese is poor, and without a Japanese speaker at the table I’d struggle here, which is why we made our free printable ordering cards. Point at what you want, including your allergies, and the staff will understand.
FAQ
What is Kawaichi in Kuwana famous for?
Miso-nikomi udon, hamaguri clam udon and its own family-recipe gyoza, seasoned with a little sansho pepper.
Is Kawaichi good if you don’t eat seafood?
Yes. My son doesn’t eat seafood and had the chūka soba and gyoza. The miso-nikomi udon menu also has beef, chicken and egg versions.
Should I get the hamaguri udon in miso or clear broth?
The restaurant recommends clear broth (sumashi), and so do we. It lets the clam flavour come through.
When is Kawaichi closed?
Tuesdays. On Mondays it closes once the food sells out, so go early.
Can I take the gyoza home?
Yes. Raw or cooked gyoza to take away cost ¥560 for 6, packaging included.
More from our travels: Mie · Autumn · Winter · Spring · Summer
